Member exclusive Q&A: How to thicken oils that won’t be greasy? Fatty alcohols, fatty acids, liquid esters, and solid esters, plus a formula for a whipped not-butter

On February 11, we took a look at ways to thicken oils that won’t be greasy. Today, let’s look at a few other ways to thicken oils! A few years ago – holy cow, was that in 2010? – I did some experiments thickening oils with cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, and complicated with...

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Member exclusive Q&A: What’s the difference between caprylic/capric triglycerides and squalane?

In the January Q&A from Patreon, Camirra asked: I want to use Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides and/ or squalene in a facial serum. I already have Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides but have not tried squalene before. I want a light moisturizing facial oil that I can use in the morning. What is the difference between them? They both seem pretty...

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Emollients: Chia seed oil

Chia seed oil (Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil) is a light to medium, non-greasy oil derived from the seeds of the salvia hispanica flower, a member of the mint family. Is it wrong that all I can think about it is “Ch-ch-ch-chia!” when I’m formulating with this oil? It contains 5% to 8% palmitic acid  1%...

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Weekday Wonderings: Did my oil turn my lovely body butter brown?

I’m slowly working my way through the comments you’ve left me over the last few months, and I’ll be posting those I think would appeal to a larger audience over the next little while. If you have a question, please comment on a relevant post, regardless of how old it might be, and I’ll do...

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Ingredient: Watermelon seed oil

Watermelon seed oil (INCI Citrullus lanatus (watermelon) seed oil) is a pale yellow, light to medium weight, slightly greasy feeling oil that comes from the watermelon seed. The version I have is cold expeller pressed, but you can find solvent extracted versions. It contains 11% palmitic acid (C16), 10% stearic acid (C18:0), 15% oleic acid...

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