oils

Emollients you will love: Pracaxi oil (INCI: Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil)

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Pracaxi oil (INCI: Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil) is a pale yellow to yellow oil derived from the seeds of the Pentaclethra macroloba tree found in parts of Central America, Trinidad, Guyana, and north Brazil. In the not-so-great photo above, you can see it can be light yellow to darker yellow.  I’ve seen a few claims...

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Emollients you will love: Moringa oil

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Moringa oil (INCI: Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil) is an interesting oil filled with a few neat fatty acids. It’s used as an emollient as well as an occlusive to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a fragrance stabilizer, and a hair care additive. It’s a light, non-greasy, dry feeling oil that has a slightly nutty odour...

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#alltheingredients: Gondoic acid (11-eicosenoic acid) and an aside about the shapes of fatty acids

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A diagram of gondoic acid, also known as 11-eicosenoic acid.

Gondoic acid (C20:1) – also known as 11-eicosenoic acid – is a monounsaturated oil found in jojoba oil, camelina oil, and moringa oil, amongst others. It works as a moisturizing, skin conditioning, and emollient ingredient. I can’t find out much about this fatty acid, to be honest, and why it’s more special than any other...

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#alltheingredients: Arachidic fatty acid (eicosenoic acid)

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Arachidic fatty acid is a saturated, straight chain fatty acid with 20 carbon atoms in the chain. It has a melting point of 75˚C (167˚F), and a boiling point of 328˚C, so it can handle being heated and held. It’s found in a number of our favourite oils and butters – cupuacu butter, illipe butter,...

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#alltheingredients: Behenic fatty acid (docosanoic acid)

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Behenic acid is a straight chain (C22 or 22 carbon), saturated fatty acid found in some of our oils, like moringa and pracaxi, and in small amounts in peanuts. It has a melting point of 80˚C (176˚F), and a boiling point of 306˚C, so it tolerates the heat at which we create our products pretty...

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