all the ingredients

#alltheingredients: Lauramidopropyl Betaine (amphoteric surfactant)

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I’ve been playing with lauramidopropyl betaine for almost a year now, and it definitely has a permanent place my workshop shelves as a very mild, primary or secondary surfactant I can use in pretty much any foamy, bubbly, lathery™ product I make, and you know how much I love these kinds of things! Let’s take...

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#alltheingredients: Fruit enzyme complex PF (active)

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I realized I hadn’t shared anything about this ingredient with you this year, so let’s make that right! Fruit enzyme complex PF* is a combination of an number of different fruits, containing 10.889% each of pomegranate, star fruit, passion fruit, kiwi, mangosteen, pineapple, lychee, Indian jujube, and guava with 2% Leucidal as preservative. This blend is...

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#alltheingredients: Hydroxypropyl guar (rheology modifier)

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I have a really interesting question from this month’s Q&A that I want to answer, but first we need to take a look at hydroxypropyl guar. I have this ingredient as Jaguar® HP-105 from Solvay but you can also find it as Polycos, so some of this might be specific to one version or another. Hydroxypropyl...

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#alltheingredients: Foaming apple surfactant (sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) – surfactant

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Foaming apple surfactant (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids) is a foamy, bubbly, lathery surfactant derived from – wait for it… – apples! It’s a very mild surfactant with a neutral pH, great for all skin types, but especially sensitive or dry types. Because it has a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.5, it works well...

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Esters: Cetyl ricinoleate – simple ester

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Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  Cetyl ricinoleate is derived from ricinoleic acid from castor oil, so it’s a palm-free...

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