bath and body

Better crafting through chemistry: Stearic acid (updated for 2025)

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Stearic acid in a tin plate, which is a white flaky solid.

Oh, stearic acid, how we love you as a thickener! Inexpensive and multi-functional, you make a lotion become a decadent cream! Stearic acid is a saturated, long chain fatty acid with 18 carbon molecules, which is to say it is a chain of carbons and hydrogens with a carboxyl group (that COOH you see at...

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When lotions go wrong! (Updated 2023)

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A collage of diagrams demonstrating different ways a lotion can fail. The top image is of a successful lotion, with micelles containing yellow oil floating in a sea of blue water.

Original post shared 2009. Slowly updating it for 2023 with new information and diagrams. This is definitely a work in progress as there’s so much more to share!  At one time or another, we’ve all experienced epic lotion failure and asked ourselves what we did wrong. We call it separation, but do you know why...

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Emollients you will love: Cranberry seed oil (updated December 28, 2021)

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Cranberry oil – INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil – is an interesting oil. With 3 to 6% palmitic acid (C16), up to 2% stearic acid (C18), 22 to 26% oleic acid (C18:1), 30 to 38% linoleic acid (C18:2), and 20 to 38% linolenic acid (C18:3), you’d expect it to have a short shelf life...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Esters – isopropyl myristate (IPM) – updated, 2021

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A cup of isopropyl myristate. It's being poured from a bottle into a plastic shot glass that sits on a brown coffee table.

Original post from 2009!  If you’ve been following this blog for any length of time, you’ll know I’m a fan of isopropyl myristate or IPM. I use it primarily as a dry or astringent emollient to reduce the greasy feeling of other oils in a lotion or lotion bar. You can use it in large...

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It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas…

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…in the Barclay-Nichols’s household. (Don’t hit me!) It’s might seem like Christmas is a huge 61 days away, but when you’re a crafter, you have to start early! I don’t think it’s helpful for me to start posting recipes on December 1st because you need time to try out these products, see how the fragrances...

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