#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ HC (cationic emulsifier)

AminoSensyl™ HC (INCI: Brassica alcohol and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate) is a brand new positively charged or cationic emulsifier suitable for use in lotions and conditioners. It’s an amino-acid based conditioner not based on quats that promises to condition, smooth, and strengthen hair. It’s 100% naturally compliant, and doesn’t require neutralization to increase or decrease the...

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#alltheingredients: Emulsense HC (INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol) – naturally compliant conditioner

In the September Q&A, Patricia asked, Hi Susan. I have been a subscriber for a while now and just got myself upgraded and am so excited to see all the stuffs that i have been missing up till now :-). I have been using Varisoft in my conditioner bars up till now, but bought some...

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#alltheingredients: Brassicyl Valinate Esylate and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (cationic ester, conditioning)

Brassicyl Valinate Esylate is an “amino acid lipid” derived from the amino acid, valine. It’s cationic or positively charged, so it acts as a conditioning agent that’s substantive to hair and skin, but it isn’t a quaternary compound, like behentrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or polyquaternium 7 to name a few. This ingredient is...

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Q&A quickies: Conditioner thinning out as it cools? Using powdered surfactants in liquid products? Pressed vs heated shampoo bars?

In the September Q&A, Jenny asked: Hi Susan!! I have a question that I hope you can help me with. I have formulated a hair conditioner that I love with adaptations from your formula but when I make it sometimes (most times and even with precise measurements) after heating and holding and combining the ingredients together...

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Acids, bases, and pH – oh my! Creating a light, non-greasy summer weight lotion with Varisoft EQ 65 (part three, formula and pH)

If you want to catch up on the acids, bases, and pH – oh my! series, please visit the pH & pH meter section of the blog!  On the 7th, we created the water phase of this light summery lotion with Varisoft EQ 65, and yesterday, we looked at the oil phase and considered which...

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