Substantiating claims: How much improvement can be expected from actives?

In the monthly Q&A, Susan asked, I have a number of age / liver spots on my hands and face, as I was part of the “let’s use baby oil to get a suntan” generation. I am hoping that you could tell me the best actives to tone these little beauties down. I am specifically...

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Substantiating claims: What does it mean to “brighten skin” or “reduce the appearance” of something? Looking at parameters, measuring, and testing (long post)

Oh wow, did I go down the rabbit hole for a question posed by Susan on the monthly Q&A quite a few months back. As with many of the awesome questions you ask there, this one took a while because it’s become a series that might end up being an e-book as well. Thank you for...

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Q&A: How do I use n-acetyl glucosamine in heated emulsions?

In this month’s Q&A, Susan asked, Happy day to you! I’m hoping you could tell me how to add n-acetyl glucosamine to heated emulsion face lotions. All I’ve found is that it should be dissolved in water and added to a formulation below 50˚C. Since we’re heating to 70˚C to make the emulsion this would bring...

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#alltheingredients: NaturePep® Sacha Inchi (INCI: Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract) – facial care active

As I’ve been reviewing all the various formulas and ingredients I’ve played with over the last four years – wow, since 2017??? – I’ve been finding ones I haven’t shared with you yet. Let’s take a look at this lovely water soluble ingredient that claims it can reduce the look of our wrinkles, reduce roughness...

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Creating facial moisturizers with active ingredients: Vitamin C, 3-glyceryl ascorbate

This post and formula is kinda an extension of last week’s Formulating Friday in which we made a facial moisturizer with the emulsifier Simulsol/Lotionpro™ 165 as we’re modifying those formulas, but you don’t have to be following the series to make these. If you’d like to learn more about each ingredient and why we’re using them...

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