Emollient

Emollients you will love: Milk thistle oil (INCI: Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Seed Oil)

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Milk thistle oil (INCI: Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Seed Oil) is a luxurious feeling liquid oil derived from milk thistle seeds. I find it to be medium to thicker viscosity, lubricious oil with good slip and glide as well as a thick cushion that feels rich, non-greasy, and non-tacky. It contains anti-oxidants that soothes annoyed...

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Q&A: Is adding 3% squalane to a moisturizer worth it?

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In the monthly Q&A, Susan asked, Hey Susan, I’m debating making a face lotion with either 8% Hemisqualane for the liquid oil or splitting the 8% between hemi (5%) and regular squalane (3%). I’ve made it both ways and there’s only a slight difference in feel between them. Is one of the oils better for...

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Q&A: Are only natural oils or butters prone to oxidation? Are water soluble ingredients? How can we protect these ingredients?

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In the monthly Q&A, Noémie asked, Hi Susan, I’m a new subscriber and I love your work. I’m a beginner and I have a quite basic question : why only natural oils/butters are prone to oxidation ? If I well understood, oxidation occurs on double bonds in hydrocarbon chains, but don’t esters (derived from natural fatty...

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#alltheingredients: Octyldodecanol (fatty alcohol, liquid)

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Octyldodecanol is a liquid, clear, colourless, odourless oil soluble fatty alcohol that works as an emollient and occlusive in our anhydrous products and emulsions. Whaaaat? Did you say a liquid fatty alcohol? Like one of our solid fatty alcohols, like cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, or behenyl alcohol? How can such a thing be? Is this...

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Emollients you will love: Cacay oil (INCI: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil)

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Cacay oil (INCI: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil) – might also be called Kahai oil – is a light, quick absorbing, non-greasy oil with a slightly nutty odour that works as a dry oil with a matte appearing finish with some dewiness and good emollience. It’s cold pressed from the seeds of the Caryodendron orinocense tree...

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