Emollient

Q&A: Are only natural oils or butters prone to oxidation? Are water soluble ingredients? How can we protect these ingredients?

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In the monthly Q&A, Noémie asked, Hi Susan, I’m a new subscriber and I love your work. I’m a beginner and I have a quite basic question : why only natural oils/butters are prone to oxidation ? If I well understood, oxidation occurs on double bonds in hydrocarbon chains, but don’t esters (derived from natural fatty...

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#alltheingredients: Octyldodecanol (fatty alcohol, liquid)

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Octyldodecanol is a liquid, clear, colourless, odourless oil soluble fatty alcohol that works as an emollient and occlusive in our anhydrous products and emulsions. Whaaaat? Did you say a liquid fatty alcohol? Like one of our solid fatty alcohols, like cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, or behenyl alcohol? How can such a thing be? Is this...

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Emollients you will love: Cacay oil (INCI: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil)

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Cacay oil (INCI: Caryodendron orinocense seed oil) – might also be called Kahai oil – is a light, quick absorbing, non-greasy oil with a slightly nutty odour that works as a dry oil with a matte appearing finish with some dewiness and good emollience. It’s cold pressed from the seeds of the Caryodendron orinocense tree...

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Emollients you will love: Cloudberry seed oil (INCI: Chamaemorous seed oil)

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This emollient profile appeared in its original form in the e-book, Shiny things, volume 3: Things that distracted me, issued in November 2019. This is is the kind of material I share in these e-books – ingredient profiles, emollient profiles, other profiles along with formulas to show you how to use them.  Many are exclusive to those...

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#alltheingredients: Jojoba esters 30 (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Esters)

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Jojoba esters 30 is a white, soft, creamy paste derived from jojoba oil that works as an oil-free emollient, occlusive, viscosity builder and thickener in emulsions and anhydrous products, and stiffener in solid products, replacing butters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and solid esters. It has a melting point that ranges from 42˚C to 51˚C (107.6˚F...

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