#alltheingredients: Genugel® G-130 – kappa-carrageenan (natural rheology modifier)

As a note, there are a few different kinds of carrageenans we can buy, the most common being iota-carrageenan or kappa-carageenan. I’ll be writing about both. If you’ve ever made jelly soap, you’ve probably used iota-karageenan, which creates soft, wiggly, elastic gels.  Genugel® G-130 carrageenan (kappa) is an anionic or negatively charged water dispersible thickener derived from...

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Experiments in the workshop: Blooming Jelly Cleanser from LV Lomas, working through the formula

Ina reminded me yesterday at our cosmetic chemistry coffee klatch that I hadn’t shared this formula, so I thought I should remedy this before the year is over!  Back in May, I met with Shannon of IMCD, a distributor of so many of the ingredients we use and adore, and I fell in love with...

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#alltheingredients: Hydroxypropyl guar (rheology modifier)

I have a really interesting question from this month’s Q&A that I want to answer, but first we need to take a look at hydroxypropyl guar. I have this ingredient as Jaguar® HP-105 from Solvay but you can also find it as Polycos, so some of this might be specific to one version or another. Hydroxypropyl...

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An aside on rheology modifiers: Wetting, dispersing, and hydrating

As you saw in this post recently – magnetic stirrer with hot plate – we heated our water phase that included hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) on the magnetic stirrer with hot plate as it needs both agitation and heat to fully hydrate this starch. Why did we need to do that? It’s the idea that thickening ingredients...

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#alltheingredients: Gellan gum (Kelcogel® CG-LA) – rheology modifier, gelling ingredient

A massive thank you to Shannon of IMCD for introducing me to and sending me this ingredient! I didn’t think I could love working with gums, but she made me a believer! 🙂 We’ll be making two products over the few weeks with this – a lovely fluffy Moisture Renewal Body Wash and those gorgeous, Blooming Jelly...

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