#alltheingredients: Octyldodecanol (fatty alcohol, liquid)

Octyldodecanol is a liquid, clear, colourless, odourless oil soluble fatty alcohol that works as an emollient and occlusive in our anhydrous products and emulsions. Whaaaat? Did you say a liquid fatty alcohol? Like one of our solid fatty alcohols, like cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, or behenyl alcohol? How can such a thing be? Is this...

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Experiments in the workshop: Making a 10 minute honeyed body custard with SEPILIFE™ NUDE (formula)

I’m absolutely in love with this new cold process emulsifier, SEPILIFE™ NUDE aka GelMaker® NAT (INCI: Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, C15-19 alkane, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglycerin-6). It’s a liquid, anionic, cold process/room temperature emulsifier, rheology modifier, thickener, suspender, and texture modifier that can be used to emulsify oils on its own or used in combination...

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Why do we wait until products are cooled before packaging? Evaporation, contamination, volume, viscosity, and more!

I’m sure you’ve seen it in all my formulas – after making the product, wait until it cools to room temperature (20˚C/68˚F) before packaging – but why is that thing? Let’s take a look at a few reasons why we should wait to bottle! I definitely know how tempting it is the package an emulsion...

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Demythifying the myths: Stearic acid is not an anionic emulsifier

Stearic acid in a tin plate, which is a white flaky solid.

I can’t stress this enough – stearic acid is a non-ionic fatty acid that thickens anhydrous products and emulsions. It is not an anionic (negatively charged) emulsifier.  Sight, I thought we’d demythified this one years and years ago, but here it is, out in the wild, messing things up again. Out there in the world...

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Experiments in the workshop: Making a sugared lemon body yogurt with SEPILIFE™ NUDE (formula)

I started working with this awesome new cold process emulsifier, SEPILIFE™ NUDE, in the spring, and it’s time to share these formulas with you as I’ve had three months to observe these two creamy lotions to ensure they remain emulsified with no separations of oil and water. What is this emulsifier like? SEPILIFE™ NUDE aka...

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